The Cold Shoulder
Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2012
We’ve already spoken about how Fall is enjoying some bright and brassy notes of ’80s inspired cuts and colours. As well as novelty prints, oversized shapes and snazzy colour schemes, we also noticed an abundance of off-the-shoulder looks. Whether they were gracefully folded to reveal the shoulders, structured with sheer panels, or slashed in a dramatic décolletage moment – this was a part of the body that symbolised the sex appeal of Autumn Winter 2012.
Of course, the king of revealing body parts has to be Anthony Vaccarello, whose philosophical approach to cut and shape allow his artful positioning of materials to give a seamless and magical weaving of skin and silk, of curves and his creations. You might not be blessed with the flawless body needed to pull off some of his more daring looks, but you can appreciate the thought and precision behind his designs.
The décolletage, the collar bones and upper-chest area, comes from the French which literally means ‘without a collar’. It’s a part of the body that you can show off, and it always basks with sensual promise, without giving away too much, or looking unsavory. Cuts which show off this area are often seen on brides, who want to look both alluring, but at the same time respectable.
So, what do you invest in to show off your sexy shoulders? Aside from Vaccarello’s semi-sleeveless masterpiece, seen above on Anja Rubik, the final look for his Autumn Winter show, you can make a statement in the evening by wearing a Dolce & Gabbana gown. Their bust is covered in frills, pointing the attention a little higher than most low-necked strapless gowns.
If you want a similar look without the price-tag, then Bottega Veneta’s bustier can be worn with trousers or a full evening skirt for a similar effect. A full off-the-shoulders look was celebrated at Jil Sander, in a thoroughly vintage cut and colour, or for a more modern twist, the pointed v-necked Balenciaga dress, with leather and print details. Finally, Lanvin’s structured velvet dress got plenty of attention when it was showcased last February, and with good cause, as the dress features a complex design underneath the outwardly simple look, to keep the volume and shape of the skirted cut. The square neckline definitely draws attention to your décolletage, just ask the Tudors, as both were all the rage in the 16th century.
1. Bottega Veneta, Brocade Satin Corset; £1,125, motilo.com
2. Dolce & Gabbana, Lace Trimmed Gown; £5,095, motilo.com
3. Balenciaga, Leather and Satin Bustier Dress; £2,650, motilo.com
4. Jil Sander, Long Dress; £3,530, motilo.com
5. Lanvin, Structured Velvet Dress; £3,455, motilo.com